Differences:
Homer Nods:  There was an error in the schematic last shown -- not on the printed circuit board -- the schematic to the right is correct.
This  LM3875 inverted "chipamplifier" PCB and kit differs a  bit from those seen on many websites.  We have chosen to include a low pass filter on the output which reduces the possibility that high frequency oscillation will destroy your speakers.  In addition, we allow space for a small Bourns trimmer potentiometer so that you can set the amplifier to match the output level of your pre-amplifier.  The 1000uF/ 50VDC  electrolytic capacitors on the V+ and V- pins of the LM3875 are bypassed with 100nF/100V ceramic capacitors, and a 1uF/100V film capacitor bridges the V+ and V-.  Of course, you could omit these additional items for a "minimalist" approach, but we prefer to prevent problems before they happen, rather than reacting to them.

The version in the schematic which pops up when you click is quite low impedance.  It also has a lower D.C. offset than the original version (and theoretically lower noise).  You can experiment with the resistor values to see what's right for your situation.  If you are not using a preamplifier, use the higher value resistors.  If your source can't deal with a low impedance, use 10K for R3 and R6, 220K for R2.

Boards for this project are available here: CHIPAMPS

 

For heat sink selection you should consult the National Semiconductor interactive design guide at http://www.national.com/appinfo/audio/files/Overture_Design_Guide15.xls  If you intend to run the amplifier to its maximum rating you will need a heat sink with a 3.5 C/W rating for the LM3875T and 2.5 C/W for the LM3875TF.  The device must be mounted on the sink with either silicone heat sink compound or a heat sink pad, the appropriate screw and insulated washer. 
You can derive information from the Aavid Thermalloy or Wakefield websites for matching heatsinks with the necessary C/W rating.  It is important not to under-rate the heatsink! Those little TO-220 sinks used for your voltage regulators aren't up to the task and will result in premature device failure.  Better to select an extrusion 2 or 3 inches long, 1 inch wide with 4 or 6 fins.  Aavid Thermalloy has a web-based interactive selection tool which allows you to input dimensions and air circulation velocity to get a handle on the appropriate sized heat sink for their #42 material. 
To order, or see the varieties and permutations, just click HERE

LM3875 Inverted Amplifier Schematic (click on image for larger version)

Description:
The LM3875 printed circuit board is shown to the right.  Industry standard 0.062" FR-4 laminate, with silkscreen to show component placement, green soldermask and plated through-holes.  It measures 3.25" x 2.50".  The four mounting centers are 0.250, 0.250; 0.250,2.200;2.950,0.250 and 2.950,2.200". I panelized the board in order to keep production costs reasonable so the final dimensions of your board may not exactly match the 3.25" X 2.500" dimension, but the variations are only +/- 0.100" or thereabouts.  
The board uses star-grounding, bringing the signal path ground to the power ground connection.
The Low Pass Filter (10 ohm resistor with 1.0 μH inductor -- the resistor/inductor  has no affect until about 100kHz at which point energy is rolled off.  The effect of the RL combination will depend upon the inductance and capacitance of the cables as well as crossover.  If you don't experience HF oscillations or don't expect to have a long cable run it can be "jumpered". 

LM3875Kit Bareboard

lm3875_board.jpg (35807 bytes)

 

Parts List: Low Impedance Version
Description   Quantity Suggestion
 LM3875T U1 1
Capacitor, 1,000 uF/50V C3,4 2  
Capacitor, 1uF, 100V Film C7 2 Can substitute values from 0.47uF to 1.0uF.  Polypropylene types preferred
Capacitor, 100nF/100V Ceramic C5,6 1  
Capacitor, 1uF PE/PP C1 1 4.7uF shown in schematic.  This value will determine the Lower F3 of the amplifier..
Capacitor 1uF C2 1 1uF Film
Resistor, 10 ohm, 2 watt R4 1
Resistor 20k Ohm 0.25 Watt R2 1 Yaego Metal Film
Resistor 1k Ohm 0.25 Watt R3,6 2 Yaego Metal Film
Trimpot 20k Ohm R1 1 Bourns
Input Connector   1 Molex 0.100" Male Header
Output Jack   1 Onshore Tech ED1601
Power Jack   1 Onshore Tech ED1602
Heat Sink   1 Aavid Thermalloy with thermal impedance of 3.5 or better
Circuit Board   1 Click for LINK to TECHDIY Store

Completed LM3875Kit

completed.jpg (50808 bytes)

 

Parts List: High Input Impedance Version
Description   Quantity Suggestion
 LM3875T U1 1
Capacitor, 1,000 uF/50V C3,4 2  
Capacitor, 1uF, 100V Film C7 2 Can substitute values from 0.47uF to 1.0uF.  Polypropylene types preferred
Capacitor, 100nF/100V Ceramic C5,6 2  
Capacitor, 1uF PE/PP C1 1 4.7uF shown in schematic.  This value will determine the lower F3 of the amplifier..
Capacitor 100nF Film C2 1  
Resistor, 10 ohm, 2 watt R4 1
Resistor 220k Ohm 0.25 Watt R2 1 Yaego Metal Film
Resistor 10k Ohm 0.25 Watt R3,6 2 Yaego Metal Film
Trimpot 100k Ohm R1 1 Bourns
Input Connector   1 Molex 0.100" Male Header
Output Jack   1 Onshore Tech ED1601
Power Jack   1 Onshore Tech ED1602
Heat Sink   1 Aavid Thermalloy with thermal impedance of 3.5 or better
Circuit Board   1 Click for LINK to TECHDIY Store

 

 
Assembly:
The smallest parts should be plugged into and soldered onto the circuit board first, starting with the 100nF ceramic capacitors, resistors, film capacitors, potentiometer.
Suggestions:
I have mounted the resistors on the top of the board, and on the bottom.  It doesn't seem to make any difference in the performance.  If you use more exotic resistors you may have to mount them on the bottom of the board IN WHICH CASE YOU SHOULD SLIP A PIECE OF HEAT SHRINK TUBING OVER THE LM3875 LEADS so that they don't make inadvertent contact with the resistors.  I have left enough space for the input coupling capacitor so that a variety of devices can be employed.  Personally I use the Siemens/Epcos 1uF/100v "silvercap" which is included with the kit.
You can omit the trimpot on the input of the amplifier and hardwire a resistive voltage divider such that the maximum output of your preamplifier does not result in overloading the amplifier.  Once again, consult the National Semiconductor "Overture Design Guide".  For those of you who are doing this for the first time the trimpot is a good idea -- if the amplifier is even slightly overdriven it will distort badly.
I have found that a polypropylene capacitor of 0.47uF to 1.0 uF works best at C7.  You need a device rated for about 150% of the combined supply voltages at this location.  That is, if you have +/- 28V rails a 100VDC rated capacitor is probably about right.
I use 0.100" Molex connectors for the input, but you can hard-wire the input.  The OnShore Tech connectors for the power supply connections and speakers  will accept up to 14 AWG wire, but I would deem this "overkill" in this application.  I am always plugging in and disconnecting so the connectors are a handy feature.
Have an oscillation problem?  If the chipamp oscillates (if you don't have a scope you will note that the heat sink may get very hot, very quickly) the first thing to do is eliminate the potentiometer.  I have found that some multi-turn potentiometers caused oscillation at 1.2 MHz.  Remove the potentiometer and jumper the input directly to the input capacitor.  If you are careful with the wiring and include the 0.7 to 1.0 microHenry choke the amplifier is not likely to oscillate.
Last Modified December 4, 2006